By David Warren
The City of Orlando has a Sister City Cultural Exchange Program with Urayasu, Japan. Each year, the Urayasu Runners Club (URC) sends four select members to participate in Orlando’s OUC Half Marathon in early December. In return, the Orlando Runners Club (ORC) chooses four ORC members to travel to and compete in the Tokyo Bay Half Marathon in early February. This year, Dave Virtus, Terttu and Karl Barsch, Amy Tatum and I had the honor and privilege of being a part of this meeting of cultures.
Since this was my first time in Japan, I looked forward to seeing what the country was like. I knew that I liked the guest runners who visited us from Urayasu last December. Miyuki, Taka, Yumiko, and Masa are very decent, kind, and interesting people. They were a pleasure to have in Orlando. I learned from my trip that Japan is full of people who share many of their qualities. Japan is very clean. Japanese are very friendly and warm. They are also interested in culture and art. Here is my story of the cultural exchange.
THURSDAY FEBRUARY 2ND: Dave Virtus, Amy, Karl, Terttu and I arrive at the Narita International Airport in Tokyo. We are welcomed by Ms. Shoko Tsujimura of the Urayasu City Hall, Miyuki, and Ms. Yasuko Matsui of the Urayasu Runners Club. Shoko speaks excellent English. It is great to see Miyuki again. I am also happy to meet Ms. Yasuko Matsui. Yasuko and her husband Ryoju are my host family during my stay in Urayasu.
We visit the Urayasu City Hall. Mayor Hideki Matsuzaki and his staff officially welcome us to Urayasu. Shoko does a fine job interpreting during the meeting with the mayor. We meet also Mr. Takashi Yoneda, who is one of the founding members of the URC. Mayor Matsuzaki is pleasant and gives a very informative speech about Urayasu. We learn that Urayasu’s population is around 155,000. Urayasu covers an area of 16 square kilometers. Incredibly, three-quarters of present day Urayasu is built on land reclaimed from Tokyo Bay. We present Mayor Matsuzaki with our gift from the club. Mayor Matsuzaki provides each of us with coats. Japan is having a very cold winter this year, so these coats come in very handy during our stay.
Later, we check into the Emio Hotel and are introduced to the Urayasu Runners Club (URC). We are presented to our host families. I meet Yasuko’s husband Ryoju. Ryoju is very distinguished and speaks English very well and also knows some French. Among URC officers and members, we are introduced to the President Mr. Seino and Vice Presidents Mr. Chiyoji Hashimoto, and Ms. Kike Toshiko. Kike (pronounced KEY-kay) speaks excellent English. Japanese are super-planners, and our hosts have everything very well organized for our visit. I am also excited about the arrangements they make for me for the extra week I will be staying in Japan.
Afterwards, we have dinner with the URC at the hotel’s La La Italia restaurant. The more time I spend with Ryoju and Yasuko, the more I like them. They are a very nice couple. Yasuko ran in the OUC Half Marathon back in 2000. I soon find out that they are also well informed about America. Ryoju and Yasuko ask me about what I think of Benjamin Bernanke, Alan Greenspan’s brand new replacement on the Federal Reserve.
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD: Ryoju and Yasuko pick me up from the Emio hotel and guide me through the trains to downtown Tokyo. I have not traveled by train and subway since I lived in New York fifteen years ago. I cannot get over how clean the subways were – not a trace of graffiti!
Once in Tokyo, we meet Mr. Yoneda and go to Tokyo’s Yasukuni Shrine. The Yasukuni Shrine is one of Japan’s best known Shinto shrines. It is a memorial to Japan’s war dead. I enjoy talking with Mr. Yoneda. He is conversationally fluent in English and has a good knowledge of history. We walk a short distance to Tokyo’s “Street of Books”. This place is a book lover’s dream. Dozens of bookstores line the main east-west street. Each bookstore specializes in a subject. Yasuko likes to read about Roman history. One of Mr. Yoneda’s favorite American authors is Mark Twain. My favorite store on the “Street of Books” has a selection of ukiyoe, or Japanese woodblock prints. I especially like how ukiyoe artists use rich colors to paint beautiful women, kabuki actors, and landscapes
After visiting the Street of Books, we participate in a Setsubun ceremony at the Kamda Mioji shrine. Setsubun is something like Japan’s Halloween and also marks the traditional end of winter. The ceremony attracts a large crowd, with local dignitaries throwing dried soy beans about to ward off evil spirits. According to legend, catching the dried soy beans can bring a person good luck.
Later, we walk through the capital district to the Imperial Palace area. We pass the Diet (Japan’s legislature) and Supreme Court buildings. When we reach the palace area, Mr. Yoneda tells me how the gates of are made of wood over three hundred years old. The gates are so solid that I would not be surprised if they stand for another three centuries.
Later that evening, we have dinner with the URC at a restaurant that specializes in okonomi-yaki, or Japanese-style barbecue pancakes. Okonomi-yaki is a dish that consists of an omelet fried like a pancake, with various combinations of beef, pork, shrimp, and vegetables mixed in with the eggs. The URC members ask Dave Virtus, Amy, and I to share experiences from earlier on in the day. We show them our soy beans from Setsubun. Ryoju tells me about how the ukiyoe were very popular with the general population and influenced Vincent van Gogh and other Western painters.
SATURDAY FEBRUARY 4TH: The morning starts with a training run with the URC. The URC has their own coach, who leads us through a series of calisthenics and warm-ups. A scenic training run along Tokyo Bay follows. The sky is so clear that we can see Mount Fuji to the south-west. After a series of warm-down exercises, one of the URC members happens to glance down and notice how large my sneakers are. (My shoe size is 12EEE.) I think he shouts out the Japanese equivalent of “Hey, check out this guy’s shoes!” because some folks come over to look at my feet. A couple runners place their shoes next to mine for side-by-side comparisons. Our training run concludes with a meeting with the junior members of the URC. These are runners who are 18 years old and younger. (Most Japanese take at least six years of English in junior high and senior high school.) We break up into groups to talk with them and let them practice their English with us. They are good kids. It would be great to have them and their families come and visit us in Orlando.
Ryoju, Yasuko and Mr. Yoneda arrange a sightseeing trip through the historical section of Urayasu given by Ms. Izumi. I love history, and Ms. Izumi does a fine job of guiding our tour. She explains that Urayasu was a fishing village prior to the land reclamation project. I am struck by how resourceful the people were. They ground seashells to make cement and sold it to other cities. The thatched roofs of their houses were made of dried seaweed. Japanese are also a deeply spiritual people. The families within a neighborhood block pooled their resources to build Shinto shrines and Buddhist areas of worship.
Afterwards, Yasuko, Ryoju and Mr. Yoneda take me to a kendo class led by Sensei Sekine. Kendo is the Japanese martial art of fencing with bamboo swords. I look forward to watching a kendo demonstration. To my surprise and amazement, Sensei Sekine hands me a traditional kendo outfit along with a kendo sword. He invites me to join the kendo class. I get a real thrill out of practicing kendo forms and techniques with Sensei Sekine. I am grateful to him for the honor and privilege of attending his class.
SUNDAY FEBRUARY 5TH: It is the morning of the Tokyo Bay City Half Marathon. A frigid air mass had settled over the city during the night, driving the temperature down to 26 degrees Fahrenheit (or -3 degrees Celsius). We are glad when two other members of the Orlando Runners Club join us for the pre-race ceremony: Ms. Yuku Mercator and Ms. Miki Ito. Yuku and Miki are visiting their families while in Japan.
The ceremony is hosted by the City of Urayasu and Tokyo Disney. Miyuki, Taka,
Yumiko, and Masa were the four runners who represented Urayasu in the OUC Half
Marathon last December. They are part of the pre-race ceremony, and we enjoy
seeing them again. Despite the cold, the high spirits and enthusiasm of Mayor
Matsuzaki and the Disney cast are contagious.
Over seven thousand runners participate in the race. Japanese runners have no problem running in the cold. Despite the cold, many Japanese spectators are out here cheering us on with shouts of “Go Orlando!” and “Do your best!” Even though I do not have the race I expect (2:01), the experience is fantastic.
After the race, we check out of the Emio Hotel, and are picked up by our host families. I have a delightful time during my stay with Ryoju and Yasuko. They treat me with great kindness and hospitality. I meet their daughter Masayo and their son-in-law Nabe-chan. They are a very nice young couple and are visiting from Tokyo. Yasuko prepares a chicken and curried rice meal that is heaven. They teach me some basic conversational Japanese.
The URC hosts a Welcome Party for the visiting Orlando runners later that
evening. Japanese know how to party and have a good time. We exchange gifts with
the URC on behalf of the ORC. Later, each of us is presented with our Japanese
names. My Japanese name is Ooki hasu, which means “Big Lotus” in Japanese. A
pleasant evening of dinner and dancing follows.
MONDAY FEBRUARY 6TH: Ryoju tells me over breakfast that the Pittsburgh Stealers won the Super Bowl.
Miyuki, Miyuki’s husband Kotaro, and Kike take Dave Virtus and me to a sumo stable, where we watch a dozen sumo wrestlers train. Miyuki and Kotaro explain that wrestlers belong to “stables” that are usually owned and presided over by ex-champions. A sumo bout is an intense flurry of force and speed and leverage. I am surprised to see that sumo bouts often last only a few seconds. It is a real treat to watch.
Afterwards, they take us to see Unihotaru - the Aqua Line over Tokyo Bay. Unihotaru is an interesting combination bridge and tunnel. An observation platform in the center overlooks the bay. Kotaro explains that the Japanese engineering company that built Unihotaru went on to build the “Chunnel” for Britain and France. Later, Kotaro offers to let Dave Virtus take a turn driving. Like all cars in Japan, the steering wheel is on the right side. Japanese drive on the left side of the road.
Thereafter, we drive to the Chinatown district in the City of Yokohoma. Red
street lanterns still decorate the streets from the Chinese New Year
celebration. There are many shops that sell Chinese herbs, foodstuffs, and
souvenirs. Street vendors sell bags of delicious roasted chestnuts. We feast on
a wide range of Chinese food at a fine restaurant.
Later, I meet up with Ryoju and Yasuko. They take me to dinner at Kakureya - a yaki tori restaurant. Yaki tori consist of small chunks of chicken, grilled over an open fire with pieces of onion and green peppers. They are served on skewers and taste especially good with soy sauce. The shop itself has a relaxed and casual atmosphere. We talk about running and our favorite races over dinner. Yasuko tells me about her experience when she represented Urayasu in Orlando’s OUC Half Marathon back in 2000. Yasuko likes to run a particular ultra marathon race that lasts thirteen hours! TUESDAY FEBRUARY 7TH: When I first came to Urayasu, I decided that I would live Japanese as much as I could during my visit. That meant eating fish. I never cared for fish when I was growing up, but I discover in Japan that is no longer the case: I ate a lot of fish and enjoyed it. Yasuko prepares a delicious Japanese-style breakfast.
Dave Virtus, Terttu and Karl, Amy and I meet up with our host families for a tour of Urayasu’s City Library and the Urayasu City Folk Museum. Their visit concludes at the Urayasu City Hall. Shoko, our host families, and many from City Hall are there for their departure. We say our good-byes and wish them farewell. Since I am staying an extra week in Japan, I check into the Oriental Hotel. Ryoju and Yasuko review the plans of my upcoming trip to Kyoto with me.
WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 8TH: I take the day off to relax and catch up on studying for a course I am taking this semester. During a study break, I catch a Japanese television news program that reports Princess Akishino is expecting her third child. Reaction in Japan to the princess’ pregnancy is very enthusiastic. Ryoju and Yasuko later explain to me that Prince and Princess Akishino already have two daughters. If the baby is a boy, he would become third in line in Imperial succession.
A brief note about Japanese television. Japanese television offers the same range of news, sports, drama, comedy, cartoons, and quiz shows that we have in America. I am surprised to see an ad for AFLAC, with the ubiquitous Peking duck that Americans are familiar with. Moreover, I am impressed by the government network, known as NHK (Nippon Hoso Kyoku). This network is highly educational. It carries foreign-language instruction (English and Spanish) and even trigonometry courses.
THURSDAY FEBRUARY 9TH: After I check out of the Oriental Hotel, I meet with Ryoju and Yasuko. They guide me to the Shin Kan Sen, or bullet train, station in Tokyo. Yasuko (Bless her heart) gives me a letter and a packed lunch to take along my trip to Kyoto. The letter is in Japanese and explains that I am an American visitor and has my contact information in case I get lost.
The
Shin Kan Sen ride from Tokyo to Kyoto is fantastic. I have read that it can
travel at speeds in excess of 170 mph (or 270 kph). The Shin Kan Sen effectively
cuts a six hour car ride down to just over two hours. Once we leave the Tokyo
area, the change in terrain is striking. Whereas Tokyo and Urayasu are located
on a plain, the country becomes very mountainous. We pass Mount Fuji twenty-four
minutes into the trip. Six minutes later, we pass by the port city of Odawara.
This view is breathtaking. To my left is the pristine and beautiful Pacific
Ocean. There is a magnificent view of a snowcapped mountain range on my right.
As soon as I get to my hotel, the Heianbou-Inn, I know the trip to Kyoto is worth it. The Heianbou-Inn is a ryokan, or traditional Japanese-style inn. There is a place at the front where you take your shoes off. You have to sleep on the floor. And there are no chairs – you sit on the floor at the table. This is exactly what I am looking for.
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 10TH: I join up with the sightseeing tour of Kyoto that Ryoju and Yasuko found for me. The tour is conducted in English. Until 1868, Kyoto was the Imperial capital city of Japan. The city has a rich history, with over 1,600 Buddhist temples. We visit the Kinkuji temple. It is a Zen Buddhist temple and home of the Golden Pavilion. One of the temple’s Zen gardens has a 600 year old bonsai tree in the shape of a sailing ship. Next, we watch Zen disciples place small white cloth targets out for an archery competition that will be held later on in the day. Although I would die a thousand deaths to see the Zen archers in action, I move on with the rest of the tour group to our next stops on our itinerary.
I enjoy our visit to the Haeien Shinto Shrine. The tour guide explains that Shinto ceremonies originate from nature worship. Shinto ceremonies celebrate the present world. For example, many Japanese weddings are Shinto ceremonies. The landscaping of the Haeien’s garden is lovely and includes a traditional pond and waterfall. It is somehow peaceful and relaxing. It must be a very beautiful place when the cherry blossoms bloom in late March.
We end the day with a tour on a mountainside at the edge of Kyoto. The Kiyomizu temple was built here, along with other shrines and temples. It’s an impressive place where you can walk around in parts of it. The temple grounds contain five-tiered structures known as pagodas. I learn that pagodas are where ashes of the dead are buried. Our tour guide notes that, whereas Shintoism celebrates the present world, Buddhist ceremonies have their role in the world after death. Japanese funerals are Buddhist ceremonies.
I am glad to meet Ryoju meets at the Kyoto train station. He is returning from a business trip to Osaka. We take the return Shin Kan Sen back to Tokyo. Ryoju teaches me a little about the elements of written Japanese.
SATURDAY FEBRUARY 11TH: The URC invites me to join them for their Saturday morning training run. It is a clear day just like last Saturday. I have an enjoyable run with Sensei Sekine and a nice young lady named Sawa-chan.
That evening, Kotaro and Miyuki host a dinner party at their home. Japanese are generous with time, praise, and conversation. Any foreigner who speaks even a few phrases of Japanese is encouraged to say and hear more. The process of connecting Japanese and English has some entertaining moments. For instance, Ms. Iku, Kackey and his wife Misako tell me about an idea where a person’s blood type relates to their personality type. At one point, I wonder aloud about the distribution of blood types among the URC members. Sure enough, Mr. Hashimoto produces a membership list that methodically lists each member’s blood type!
After dinner, Mr. Yoneda and Kotaro set up a big screen television for a slide show presentation of our visit to Urayasu. I enjoy seeing photos taken from the half marathon and the after race party. They also show Terttu and Karl’s trip to the Meiji shrine. Pictures taken from the visit Dave Virtus and Amy made to the Edo Tokyo Museum are there, too. All the while, Kackey, Kike and Ryoju tell us good stories behind the pictures. Watching the slideshow, I feel enormous gratitude for all that our Urayasu friends have done to make our visit such a wonderful experience.
SUNDAY FEBRUARY 12TH & MONDAY FEBRUARY 13TH: I spend the major part of these two days shopping for souvenirs in Urayasu’s Daiei and Ito-Yokado malls. (The Ito-Yokado Group owns the 7-Eleven stores in Japan and North America). My sister asked me to bring back some Japanese chocolate. I learn from the advertisements in Daiei that Valentine’s Day is celebrated in Japan. I am puzzled that I seem to be the only guy shopping for chocolates. Could it be that Japanese men have already bought their Valentine’s gifts well in advance? As I mull this over, the background music in Ito-Yokado’s food court segues from Gloria Estefan to Eminem.
TUESDAY FEBRUARY 14TH: Yasuko, Mr. Yoneda, Miyuki, and Iku wait with me for my bus back to the Narita International Airport. Yasuko gives me photos she and Ryoju had taken during my stay in Urayasu, along with a very nice picture frame. I tell them about my souvenir shopping trip and how I was puzzled over why I was the only guy buying chocolate yesterday. Mr. Yoneda and Yasuko clear it all up for me. Valentine’s Day is celebrated a little differently in Japan. Whereas American couples exchange their gifts for each other on February 14th; only women give gifts to the men on Valentine’s Day in Japan. The men reciprocate and give the women their gifts a month later on March 14th. So I am still learning things about Japan up to the moment of my departure. More importantly, I feel that the longer I stay in Japan, the harder it is for me to leave my new friends.
When I took up running as a leisure time activity six years ago, I never dreamed there would be opportunities like participating in the cultural exchange with Urayasu. I would like to express my profound gratitude to all those people who helped make this an experience of a lifetime. I am grateful to the Cities of Orlando and Urayasu for sponsoring the cultural exchange. I am thankful to the Orlando Runners Club for allowing me to be a part of this wonderful program. Finally, I would like to thank Ryoju and Yasuko Matsui and the members of the Urayasu Runners Club for their kindness and friendship. What a blessing they are to me and how pleased I am that our lives crossed.